Fruits and vegetables: apples, apricots, avocados, bananas, berries, cantaloupe, carrots, cherries, sweet corn, dates, figs, grapes, grapes, grapes, honey, mangoes, oranges, papayas, peaches (* not pits) - Toxic!), Pears, pineapple, sweet potatoes, plums and raisins.
Proteins: Meat (turkey without added spices or sauce, cooked thin slices of chicken, etc.), hard boiled eggs, yogurt, cottage cheese, tofu and peanut butter.
Feeds: Live insects (cricket, meal, earthworms, etc.; are high in fat and should be fed as a feed, not a staple of the diet; ** Do not feed on insects you collect outside - may be contaminated with pesticides) Raw and unsalted Nuts.
Sugar gliders can be pickle eaters so they don't always get all the nutrients they need. Therefore, it is recommended that reptiles take supplements such as multivitamins or calcium supplements with D3.
Your sugar glider should always have fresh water, however do not worry if they drink very small amounts as they mostly eat from their food.
Some sugar glider owners feed their pets once a day and sometimes twice a day, morning and night. This really depends on the preference of your sugar glider. If they are hungry again in the morning, you can try giving them a small amount of food in the morning or more in the evening.
Sugar gliders should not be fed raw sugar, sugar substitutes, candy or chocolate.
HABITAT
The sugar glider cage should be as large as possible, the better the height. They need a lot of space to climb. The recommended size for one sugar glider is 20 ″ x 20 ″ x 30 is. The cage should have wire mesh or metal bars that are so close that they cannot be squeezed into your small glider. Their habitat should also be in a non-busy area during the day so that they can sleep. Avoid direct sunlight, but make sure there is enough light in the room to distinguish between night and day. The room should be 15-30 degrees Celsius.
Sugar gliders like to eat a lot, so a plate of food attached to the side of the cage is best. They need some kind of nest to sleep during the day. Examples include a cloth bag, a wooden bird house, and a plastic hamster house. You can buy suitable commercial bedding, or you can use pieces of wood or parchment paper. Anything you use should not be toxic if it gets into the body.
Sugar gliders love toys so you should give them as many bird toys as possible, such as ladders, bells, exercise wheels, tunnels and balls. You can add a few twigs to the nest so that they have more to climb on, but make sure they are made of non-toxic wood and that they are regularly replaced when they are soiled.
HEALTH
Some may think you should never go to a veterinarian to check on a small pocket pet like a sugar glider, however, there are a number of medical issues a sugar glider can face:
Calcium iency: If you do not have a calcium-rich diet in your sugar glider, they indicate lethargy, paralysis and difficulty moving. If you think your sugar glider is not getting enough calcium, you should consider adding calcium supplements to prevent these symptoms.
Constipation and Diarrhea: If you do not have enough roughage in your diet, you may have a hard, distant stomach, bloating and dry stools. On the other hand, if your sugar glider is stressed, you may see diarrhea if you eat too much citrus fruits or for many other reasons. Diarrhea is dangerous because it can quickly lead to fatal dehydration if left untreated.
Injuries: This is a very obvious, but common sugar glider injury involves torn nails, open wounds and broken bones.
Parasites: Sugar gliders can get parasites like ticks, fleas, mites, lice, roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms like a cat or dog. If you suspect that your sugar glider is a parasite, consult your veterinarian for treatment options.
Stress: Sugar gliders can be stressed due to poor diet, illness, dirty cage, too little or too much cramp, excessive fatigue, loneliness, laziness, high heat or cold and many other reasons. Among the glories your glider emphasizes are loss of appetite, overeating, oversleeping and cramping.
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